Kununurra, Lake Argyle and Wyndham

Kununurra, "The place where rivers meet”, is the last WA town before the border to Northern Territory. It is so hot here that the water flows hot out of the cold water taps. The pool temperature at the caravan park is 28 degrees, yet feels quite cool. Kununurras main attraction is the mighty Ord River and Lake Argyle.

The Ord was first dammed in 1962, with the so-called "Diversion Dam". Upstream the well known "Ord Dam", completed in 1972, is responsible for the largest artificial lake in the southern hemisphere, Lake Argyle. This ensured a constant water reservoir and irrigation system for the local agriculture and mines while its hydro-electric scheme provides the whole area with power. There is enough water here to grow almost anything. However due to the remoteness of Kununurra the freight costs are horrendous and only high value items like chia, sesame seeds and high quality cotton are worth while growing. Of course cattle has always been part of the regions agriculture. 

We visited Durack House, a beautiful, old homestead made from hand crafted limestone in 1889. Just before the lake could swallow it up, the historic homestead was dismantled and rebuilt in its original form at a nearby location. It is now a museum containing a treasure drove of period items and family history. In the garden a male bower bird had built and decorated his bower, a bachelor patch to attract as many females as he will be able to handle. “Stupid bird! One is bad enough!” was Austin's comment, which didn’t pass unpunished!

From Lake Argyle we took a fantastic 53km cruise down the Ord River and back to Kununurra which was just wonderful! Not only is the setting of the river beautiful, but the shallow bays, exposed rocks and tree studded banks are full of wild life. If you want to see lots of fresh water crocodiles, bats, rock wallabies and a huge variety of water birds - go no further!!! Very cute were the lilly birds. They are also called "Jesus birds” as, due to their ability to strut with their skinny legs over the lilly pads, they seemingly "walk on water". We returned to Lake Kununurra as the sun was setting, turning the lake into a golden pond.

Just 100 km north east of Kununurra lays WAs most northern coastal town, Wyndham. It gained importance during the Halls Creek gold rush and its port still plays a part in the mining and cattle industry.  

From Wyndham's mountain range, the Five River Lookout presents a stunning view of the Ord, Pentecost, King, Forrest and Durack Rivers flowing into the Cambridge Gulf and surrounding swamps and mudflats. From there one also overlooks the port and the cattle yards, abattoir and cannery of the once important Wyndham meat works. A channel which drained the blood from the abattoir into the gulf was still visible from above, and a small Aussie boy next to me exclaimed: “The crocs would have loved that!” In true Aussie fashion this town has to have something “big”! Here it is the “Big Croc” which guarding the entrance of town. Nearby we met Rob, an indigenous Australian, who sold us one of his beautiful, carved Boab seed pods. We saw some later in Kununurra for double the price he had asked for. 

Leaving Wyndham we stopped at the Afghan Cemetery. When in the 1930s trucks replaced the camels as a quicker mode of transport, most of the Afghan Cameleers left Australia. Just eleven stayed behind and were eventually buried here. In Muslim tradition all of their graves carry a plain headstone and face Mecca. The graves seem unusually big and a sign explains that it was common to burry the cameleer together with his lead camel. 

About 20km south of town down some dirt tracks an escarpment leads up to a massive rock ledge. Underneath it we found a whole gallery of aboriginal art. These paintings are not widely advertised and not sign-posted but are truely amazing.  

The area was also full of large boat trees, and I found the perfect one for Austin! Although it is not the famous Prison Boab near Derby, it nevertheless does its job. I wonder if Austin is still there or made it out!?….



© Austin Robinson 2019