Perth and Rottnest Island

As we approached WAs capital city it became quickly apparent that the town had changed “a little” since our last visit in 1979. 

We were lucky to have Austin’s old school mate Trevor and partner Teryall to take us around town. Not deterred by the intermittent downpours they introduced us to the new architecture around Elizabeth Quay and St. Georges Terrace, as well as some quaint lanes. Stafo Lane with its bars and restaurants reminds a little of Melbourne and “London Court” transported us straight to the UK.

Unlike in the UK, the Perth weather changed within minutes from rain to sunshine, and we were told by a bus driver that in Perth the sun shines at least once a day, every day of the year! 


The botanical garden and view from Kings Park were stunning, even in grey drizzle. 

Trevor and Teryall were not only great tourist guides, they also were such good sports! When roped in by a street performer, they continued to play their part while another shower rained down. As a matter of fact, we thought that Trevor out-performed the street artist by a long shot.

Neither Trevor nor Austin are strangers to performing. Both guitarists in a band back in their school days, Teryall and I were treated to a few impromptu jam sessions, while staying with our caravan on Trevors idyllic property in the South of Perth.

On another day of temperamental weather we were invited to a picnic by the Perth based “”Canal Capers” who, when not in WA, merrily sail the European rivers and canals. 


We enjoyed an interesting, fun afternoon with these lively boaties, half of whom we had already bumped into on one canal or the other! 


Thank you Trevor & Teryall, Vicky & Max and Anne & Pav for your great hospitality!


Now boating on the Indian Ocean is a little different to our inland cruising in Europe. Even on a calm day the water is quite choppy and as we crossed by ferry from Fremantle to Rottnest Island we saw a few green faces. It was a perfect day and the islands bays were sparkling in the sunshine.

We had brought our foldable bikes over and explored most of the Island pedalling away. The cycle paths can get a little crowded at times, as children (and people with small foldable bikes) struggle to get uphill, but this is the best way to get around. The crystal clear, turquoise waters in the bays were very inviting for a quick dip or a snorkel. The inside of the island consists mainly of salt flats and small scrub. 

“Rotto” as the locals call it was once inhabited by the Noongar people, who called it “Wadjemup” meaning “place across the water where the spirits are”. What a wonderful language which can express all this in one word!

The history of the island is a very sad one. As the white settlers took over land and enforced their laws onto the Noongar people, 4000 of them were imprisoned on the island. Brutal conditions, shootings and starvation killed so many of the indigenous prisoners, that the island itself became a graveyard. 


Today Rottnest Island is a nature reserve with only a small number of keepers permanently housed there. However tourists populate the island during the main season. The other inhabitants are the 14000 quokkas, a small, herbivorous marsupial adored as one of the islands main attractions. They are very cute and well used to the attention. One of them was attracted by my water bottle and it was soon joined by two others all drinking out off the palm of my hand. Another quokka had crept into an empty bicycle child trailer left unattended. 

We were so lucky to have chosen an early ferry on a very sunny and warm day! By mid afternoon, on our return trip to Fremantle, we could see a storm moving in and by evening it was blowing a gail. It poured down most of the night and was still wet when we set off towards Moora the next morning.

© Austin Robinson 2019